San Francisco Cocktail Week 2008

The second annual San Francisco Cocktail Week just wrapped up – and if you missed it, you will be sorry! I journeyed up the coast, last year, to cover the very first SF Cocktail Week 2007 and was impressed with what the boys from the Bay Area are doing to rally the tippling troops, so I had to show my solidarity again. (Gosh, darn, twist my arm.)

Starlight and Cable Cars

The first event kicked off last Tuesday (May 13) at Harry Denton’s Starlight Room, where Tony Abou-Ganim was honored. With decades of mixology under his belt, and boundless passion behind the stick, Tony’s nod was well deserved. The crowd toasted him with the now legendary Cable Car cocktails, which Tony created years ago while working at the Starlight Room, atop the Sir Francis Drake Hotel. The famous drink is proudly still served by today’s barmen.

Another well-respected mixologist, Jacques Bezuidenhout also worked at the Starlight Room and I was excited to share a Cable Car with him, as well, while interviewing him on-camera for an upcoming video for The Liquid Muse Cocktail Show!

Save the Sazerac!

Elixir Saloon stirred up support for Tales of the Cocktail - what a preview of what's to come in New Orleans! H. Joseph Ehrmann owns the historic saloon (which celebrates its 150th anniversary this year!) and is one of the three founders of San Francisco Cocktail Week.

He, along with Jeff Hollinger (GM of Absinthe and author of Art of the Bar) and Duggan McDonnel (of Cantina fame), decided to organize the citywide event with an eye toward unifying San Francisco’s finest bartenders. H told me that San Francisco was the first to organize a whole week around World Cocktail Day.

Proceeds from Friday’s ‘Save the Sazerac’ event at Elixir raised awareness and money for our brethren in New Orleans, and support for Tales of the Cocktail. The Grand Dame of the Crescent City herself, Ann R. Tunnerman, flew in for the party and energized the crowd for the upcoming biggest cocktailian love-fest of the year, Tales of the Cocktail, which runs July 16-20. (Be there or be a sad little puppy!)

H also prepared his version of the Sazerac, the Shirazerac, and the crowd around the bar was no fewer than 5 deep at any given moment. Jeff Hollinger jumped behind the bar to help out, and even with the boys mixing 10 drinks at a time, everyone had to elbow our way in to secure a drink, and still wait at least half an hour between rounds!

Shirazerac (by H of Elixir)

1 barspoon of Shiraz syrup*
2oz of Sazerac Rye
1/2 barspoon Pastis Herbsaint
2 dashes Peychaud’s bitters
1 Star Anise
1 quarter size round of lemon rind

Fill an Old Fashioned glass with ice and set aside to chill. Cut the lemon rind to a circle about the size of a quarter, without pith. Stick a toothpick through the star anise and into the lemon rind until only a small bit of the toothpick shows from the top, breaking off the extra beneath the lemon. Set garnish aside. In a separate glass, put shiraz syrup at the bottom of the glass and cover with the rye whiskey and the bitters. Stir to dissolve the syrup. Stir briefly. Empty the chilled glass and add the Absinthe substitute to it, swirling around to coat it and leaving a small pool of what is left at the bottom. Strain the cocktail into that glass and add the Star Anise as a floating garnish.

New (Cool) Kid in Town: Beretta

I also made a point of getting down to the very new, hip and PACKED Beretta for drinks and pizza fired to crisp perfection. The risotto kicks serious bootie, too, and the cocktails…

Well, with SF Chapter President of the USBG Jon Santer shaking and stirring, would you expect less than outstanding drinks? He created an apple and cherry drink especially for cocktail week. It was de-li-cious!

A mass exodus from Bourbon & Branch has lured several of the city’s finest bartenders to enjoy flocks of thirsty San Franciscans at their new home at Beretta. All’s fair in love and mixology, I suppose.

A Tribute to a Founding Father in Cocktail History

Saturday started off with an amazing surprise. Diego Loret de Mola (most known to us as the Barsol Pisco king) organized a very special trek out to Cypress Lawn Cemetery. We were on a mission to honor Duncan Nicol, who ran the Bank Exchange bar in the early 20th Century and created the Pisco Punch.

John Burton and David Wondrich aided Diego in digging up history on the Nicol, who lays to rest in a magnificent setting. Diego also presented John Burton with a special plaque as recognition for his deep knowledge of cocktail lore and contributions to our field.

Next, Diego took our busload to Fresca, a Peruvian-style ceviche bar for tastes of his native food and more cocktails! In addition to delicious raw fish delights, we tried Coca Pisco cocktails, garnished with coca leaves. (Don’t you just love uppers and downers in one easy sip?) The day was a treat and I definitely felt privileged to be part of the excursion.

Booze and Books

San Francisco magazine’s Scott Hocker moderated a panel of several knowledgeable cocktail history experts including David Wondrich, John Burton, Jim Jarvis and Jordan Mackay just off the lobby of Hotel Rex. Keeping in the Pisco ‘spirit,’ Duggan McDonnel treated the audience to glasses of Pisco Punch. (Now that’s the kind of lecture I can get behind!) The after-party continued at Cantina, where Mr. Mojito stepped behind the bar to shake up more fun.

Final Call at Absinthe

Once again, SF Cocktail Week had its closing party at Absinthe, hosted by Jeff Hollinger. I left town the day before so I don’t have pix from there but if it was anything like last year, I’m sure it was a who’s who of mixology enthusiasts from up and down the West Coast.

So, it was a successful sophomore year for SF Cocktail Week, and With World Cocktail Week wrapped up, all eyes are on New Orleans for an even bigger cocktail extravaganza. See you at Tales in July!

The Modern Mixologist

Tony Abou Ganim

I first learned about Tony Abou-Ganim at my favorite Hollywood sushi spot, Katana when I asked Tom (one of the head honchos there) about their drinks. He put me in touch with The Modern Mixologist who designed the cocktail programs for Katana and sister restaurants, Sushi Roku, Balboa and Boa.

As luck would have it, not long after that, I arrived in Arizona and Tony was doing a cocktail seminar for the Tucson Culinary Festival. The first thing that struck me about Tony is that his charisma just about bowls people over. His smile, high-energy and genuine niceness enhance his ability to speak comfortably in front of a group, share cheeky anecdotes and impart behind-the-bar know-how. I took a million notes on his version of the “perfect cocktail” (which includes using fresh ingredients, double-freezing the ice and creating balance in the drink).

The most fun part about his presentation, though, was watching the crowd react to him. Tony says that is his favorite part, “I get excited getting a positive reaction. That makes me feel really good, like I’m contributing something.” Tony’s theatrical background surely helps, however his passion for Mixology is what shines through. (btw – I asked him to define that much tossed-around word. Tony describes Mixology as “anything to do with cocktails, spirits and bartending.” Fair enough. If anyone would know, it would be The Modern Mixologist!)

After meeting him in Tucson, I was even happier to attend Finlandia Vodka’s Finnishing School seminar in Scottsdale, two days later, taught by Tony and Dale DeGroff (ie: The Cocktail King, and another of my cocktail idols). For me, The Liquid Muse, rubbing shoulders with these Sipster-style celebrities was inspirational, indeed!

Abou-Ganim says he loves the cocktail’s “glamorous, glorious past” and enjoys showing people that there is more to the cocktail world than “Tom Cruise flipping bottles.” As far as cocktail trends, Tony notes, “As things progress, some stuff gets a little too far ‘out there.’ I like to get creative but I don’t know if people really need a lavender-infused-foam with gold-dust to have a good drink. The trend I’m excited about is re-discovering forgotten drinks.”

Tony’s track record is long when it comes to liquid libations. He started out at Jack Slick’s Balboa Café in San Francisco, after graduating college. In 1990, he helped open the legendary Harry Denton’s. In 1993, Tony headed to New York and worked at Po in the West Village. 1995 saw his return to San Fran to open Harry Denton’s Starlight Room atop the Sir Francis Drake Hotel. There, Tony created his first “Specialty Drink Menu” which included classics such as the Sazarac, Negroni and Between the Sheets. He also came up with original recipes for the Starlight and Cable Car. In 1998, Tony lit up the Las Vegas strip when hand-picked by Steve Wynn to design the cocktail program for the Bellagio. He currently resides in Vegas and is still very hands-on with the beverage line up.

Abou-Ganim has won numerous Mixology awards and his specialty drinks have been featured in several publications including Playboy, Vanity Fair, Wine Spectator and Santé. He has been mentioned in cocktail books such as New Classic Cocktails, The Elegant Martini and Champagne Cocktails. (Imagine how incredibly excited I am that Tony will contribute a recipe to my upcoming cocktail book, as well!)

Tony’s star-quality has sparkled on CNBC, the Food Network and on the Fine Living Network’s “Raising the Bar: America’s Best Bar Chefs.” He is also working on his own cocktail book called The Modern Mixologist, due next year. I encourage you to check out his site. And, keep an eye out for his line of cocktail tools using his initials T.A.G.

Next time you’re in Vegas, belly up to the Bellagio and order a cocktail. The high-roller with the dazzling smile and year-round tan on the barstool next to you might just be Tony, himself! And, for the record, I'm sure he has many faves but one of them, for sure, is the Negroni.

Harry Denton’s Starlight Lounge

A San Francisco Legend

An infamous den of cocktailian lore, Harry Denton’s Starlight Room (atop the Sir Francis Drake Hotel) has attracted such acclaimed Mixologists as Tony Abou-Ganim and Jacques Bezuidenhout to leave a lingering libational imprint. The vibe is swanky and glammy with a hint of kitschy Vegas glitz. In other words, it’s the kind of place I love to have a cocktail with friends, warming up for a fabulous night, or ending one…

It has been on my list for ages, and I was very excited to finally get up there and try Abou-Ganim’s Cable Car. Of course, I had to pose in one of the famed plush red-velvet booths with said drink. (What can I say – I was a starry-eyed cocktail tourist!) I did not try one of Bezuidenhout's Million-Dollar Cocktails (which actually cost a few hundred per glass...) but I guess I'll put that on my "I've Been A Good Girl Santa" scroll.

I love that the swishy waitresses wear elegant long, black dresses (with a sexy side slit)… however, I would have felt slightly warmer toward mine had she given my friend Claire and I as timely and efficient service that she gave the table of men, nearby. Between waiting for our drinks to be ordered, then delivered, then having to finally bring our payment up to the cashier as we sat for 10, 15, 20 minutes waiting to pay… well, we wasted far too much valuable Cocktail Week tasting time!

On our way out, we learned a bit about Tom Sweeny, the hotel’s infamous and heroic bellman. About 15 year ago, the 30-year veteran bellman, chased down purse-snatchers who had nabbed a female guest’s bag. As a reward, the hotel sent him on a vacation to Mexico, where he saved a child from drowning.

He has since been featured in TV shows and movies, a part of Union Square history. (Who says all the celebrities are in LA!)

*Photos courtesy of Claire Barrett Photography

Welcome to Talk Drinks!

I can't believe I didn't know until now that Mixologist Jacques Benzouhait started a blog with his pal Junior. I don't Junior but I can tell you that Jacques is a hellova nice fellow, a famous drink maker and associated with some really cool spots, like Harry Denton's Starlight Room in San Francisco.

So, stop by and say "hi" and tell 'em The Liquid Muse sent you.

(Jacques is pictured here at Tales with LA's Vincenzo Marianella and one of the fabulous Sonnema Shaker Boys.)

Get Ready to Square Off!

Do you make killer cocktails? Do you have a way with libations? Here is your chance to show the world! (Deadline is THIS WEEK!)

Co-hosted by CHOW.com and Om Organics, the finals take place on September 25th from 5:30pm to 7:30pm at the Ferry Building in San Francisco.

CHOW has selected Square One(R) Organic Vodka as the featured spirit for this event, and invites amateur and professional liquid chefs to submit their recipes on CHOW.com. (Your recipes must use Square One and other organic ingredients.)

The two final contenders will be brought to San Francisco for a shakin’ showdown before a public audience and a committee of food and wine authorities.

Here’s how it works:

- create an original recipe for a pitcher cocktail using Square One(R) Organic Vodka and at least 75% organic ingredients.

- send recipe to CHOW.com

At the Square Off finals, the contestants will face two further challenges:

*develop one cocktail using ingredients culled from the Farmers Market at the Ferry Building that day
*and a second cocktail based on a mystery seasonal, organic ingredient.

The judges' verdicts on the three total drinks will determine the winner. The Square Off's five-person judging panel includes Jacques Bezuindenhout of San Francisco's renowned Harry Denton's Starlight Room, Jane Goldman of Chow, Natalie Bovis-Nelsen of The Liquid Muse.com (yes, that’s me!) and one lucky local consumer.

Ticket proceeds from the final event will benefit the non-profit groups Om Organics and CUESA and their mission to promote organic and local foods. Additional event sponsors include Imbibe Magazine, Ideal Bite, Bacar Restaurant San Francisco, and Pro Designs Pro Bar Set.

For more information, click here.

Richard Brandenburg
Cooks Up A Delicious Homecoming at Urbana

By now, Washingtonians should be aware that the swanky Kimpton hotel chain has graced the District with yet another fabulous place for visitors and locals, alike. Sister hotels, Rouge, Topaz, Madera, Helix, George and Monaco boast eco-friendly rooms and hipster lounges and / or restaurants. The newest arrival meets their current standards – and even sets it a notch higher.

Just off Dupont Circle, Hotel Palomar has everything to make guests swoon: central location, urban-chic décor and a rustically-sleek restaurant and wine bar, Urbana. Designed by San Francisco-based Puccini Group, the new eatery boasts a simple-yet-sophisticated menu and a playful list of largely Mediterranean and California vintages.

Executive Chef, Richard Brandenburg, grew up in Reston, Virginia, and worked at both Restaurant Nora and Red Sage in the late '90s before setting out to explore the culinary scene in bigger markets. He worked at top-ranking restaurants in New York, New Orleans, London and the Fifth Floor in San Francisco.

Back on ‘home turf,’ Richard declares, “I love being in DC. My sister lives 5 blocks from the restaurant. And my brother and friends, from when I was young, are close by.” He also remarks on how dining in the District has evolved, “Its amazing! It’s enormous compared to what it was. I left when I was younger because there weren’t many places to go. Now, everywhere else you hear so much ‘noise’ about DC.”

Time away afforded Brandenburg to evolve as a chef and bring his talents back to his old stomping grounds. The exclusive all-male, members-only Bohemian Club in Northern California (members range from Papa Bush and Donald Rumsfeld to Jimmy Buffet, Robert Mondavi and Bill Kimpton) served as an intensive training ground. Originally founded by journalists and artists, the waitlist to become a member of the now business-oriented organization is 15 years, and service expectations are high. He says, “One day I’d do an 8-course dinner for 30, and another day, a 4-course for 2600.” Brandenburg describes the diverse scene at the society club this way, ”It was like a huge university with 125 fraternities, 1 boy scout troop, and an Ewok village. There were lots of famous people cutting loose, playing music. One time, at 5 am, I came across one member holding a gin fizz and playing the bagpipes!”

His time in California also exposed him to a new way to look at wine. Chef Brandenburg explains, “Food and wine go hand in hand. In San Francisco, I really learned to appreciate a properly paired wine with dishes. Its part of the meal.” According to him, a good or bad sommelier can define the dining experience. In his words, “If the food is a 6, the proper wine pairing can bring it to a 9 or 10. A bad pairing can drop it to a 4.” Urbana’s wine program boasts 200 bottles in all, and features flights, 30 wines by the glass and a half dozen quartinos. Chef Brandenburg says, “Our wine list is heavy on Italian and French, and we also have some great Californian wines.”

Good food and wine are appreciated both at work and at home. Richard says his wife, a native Californian whom he met at the Fifth Floor where she tended bar, is a sommelier. Bringing his family back to the District (they have two young children) is the realization of Brandenburg’s long-time desire. He says, "Ultimately, my goal was to come back and open a restaurant.”

Chef Brandenburg explains that his cooking tends to lean toward southern France and the Mediterranean coast of Italy where dishes “balance acidity with fat.” Because he uses seasonal produce, the menu is constantly in “slow-transition." Brandenburg explains, “I have no choice but to change at least some dishes every 2-3 weeks. Figs and melon will be off in a month, for example. Sardines With Melon will become Candied Butternut Squash With Sardines.” He refers to Vitello Tonnato (braised veal atop tuna) as his signature dish. More mouth-watering items include house-made pasta, pizzas, fish and specialties like Osso Bucco with a side of Duck Fat Fries or Rosemary Poundcake.

The comfortably fashionable bar has its own scene, and Mixologist Jacques Bezuindenhout of San Francisco's famed Harry Denton's Starlight Room was brought in to design Urbana’s signature cocktails.

Still newly arrived at the time of this interview, Richard hadn’t visited many bars in the DC area. He described his favorite bar in New York: My best friend in NY (who was GM of CBGB’s) and I each lived a block away from Bar 81. On 7th between 1st and 2nd. I think it closed last year…”

His favorite drink: James on the rocks.