LA Celebrates One Year of The Sporting Life

Now, let me ask you a question, and think about an honest answer...

Los Angeles is known as the center of the entertainment industry. It is full of beautiful, trendy people who want to be part of the latest cool thing. Angelenos expect to have the best of everything – weather, restaurants, high-profile glamour. Did you really expect this town to settle for sub-par cocktails?

Long ridiculed as the “vodka / redbull” city by cocktail snobs everywhere, our fair City of Angels is making the world stand up and take notice. Not only do we have an incredibly talent crew of bartenders / mixologists / enthusiasts / writers / what-have-you in our midst, we also have the people who do it with style.

Oh yeah, I’m bias. Ridiculously so. But, I also know LA deserves to be a little cocky when it comes to cocktails. And, I’m not alone.

I first met Marcos Tello at Tales of the Cocktail in 2007, and immediately recognized that we shared a passion for both mixology, and highlighting the people in LA who do it best. I’ve been presenting some of my favorite bars and bartenders on this blog for the past 3 years so my readers can know where to find them. Meanwhile, last year, Marcos went right out and rallied our local bartenders into action.

Tello says that after returning from the “Cocktails in the Country” (Gary Regan’s former bartending academy in New York state), he felt “heartbroken” at not finding the kind of “secret underground” society of mixology enthusiasts that NYC has. In his words, “I vowed to at least start a society of bartenders who loved cocktails, so when someone like me came along, they would have a community to belong to.”

A year ago, Marcos founded “The Sporting Life.” The 7 or 8 of us at the initial meeting (in the back garden of BarKeeper) are still active in the group. However, the monthly meeting are now sponsored by liquor companies, and anywhere from 30 – 60 people show up, which is saying a lot for a Sunday afternoon when many bartenders (and drinkers) are usually sleeping, chilling on the beach, or waking up next to a sexy somebody from the night before. Tello also points out that because we don't have the advantage of all living right next to each other like in other cities, individuals have to make a concerted effort to attend "community" functions and competitions in order to connect. In his words, “We have to want it more!”

Marcos attributes The Sporting Life’s popularity to the great cocktail culture here, which had been long dormant. He points out, “If [New York and San Francisco] could resurrect their communities, I knew we could do the same with ours. Plus, LA is such a great vast market, that it was received with a huge amount of support.”

He thinks that having a ‘bartender club,’ if you will, gives Angeleno bartenders a sense of identity and elevates the awareness of good cocktails, which has a trickle-down effect into bars all over town. Marcos also believes that the LA cocktail scene is just beginning to define itself, declaring , “In the next few years there will be a definite "LA Style" when it comes to the bartending world.”

It was only fitting to have The Sporting Life’s One Year Anniversary Party back at Bar Keeper. Afterall, Joe is a good friend to the bartending community, and he is one of the heartiest enthusiasts to be found. Not only was the afternoon-long event filled with happy cocktail-swigging revelers, but some of our top talent took turns manning the bars set up for the party, showing off to each other (upping the ante for awesome cocktails for all of us!)

Marcos aims to keep expanding the group in an effort to support cocktail culture in LA. He has been pushing hard for bartenders to join the USBG (the national bartender union) and he would also like to bring in a Los Angeles Cocktail Community Board that will put on The Sporting Life from now on. He says, “This way, the group builds a community that supports itself and continues to do so for many years to come.

Raise a glass to Los Angeles, and three cheers for The Sporting Life!

The Bartender Diaries: Derek Brown

I first met Derek brown in 2005 when I was working at a small restaurant PR firm in Washington DC, and Derek was the sommelier / mixologist at Firefly, one of our clients. I was more than impressed with his talents, and when I quit public relations at the end of that year to start my blog, The Liquid Muse, I was heavily inspired by the DC bartenders, and Derek was one of the best among them. He is still one of the top people in the area, and I am pleased to (finally) feature him in The Bartender Diaries!

Derek stepped behind the bar about 7 years ago, and one of the first requests the bar owner made was if he knew how to make a rum punch. Brown remembers, “I hadn't the foggiest idea. So I grabbed a couple rums, all the fruit juices (sour mix, cranberry, OJ, whatever was in the fridge), and stuck a lime, lemon and orange slice on the rim of the glass with a cherry on top. She liked it and I was in.” Brown laughingly adds, “Now, I wouldn't thrust the same drink on my worst enemy.”

He liked the admiration and control a bartender had, but admits that once there he realized there was a lot more to it than I thought. I've been learning on the job ever since. A few years later, he became a restaurant manager and asked the owner to pay for a sommelier course so he could better assist guests.

Brown doesn’t see the jobs as vastly different citing, “If you look at early bar books they have sections on wine. Bartenders have often doubled as sommeliers.” He goes on to explain, “There's a lot in common between the two jobs but, honestly, as a sommelier you're in less control of the product. You can get to know the vineyards, vintners and even the grapes but you don’t make the product. As a bartender you're selecting from spirits (and even wines) that someone else has made but you're also manipulating them in a way as to change the final product.”

When it comes to mixology, Derek is largely self-taught although he has completed the B.A.R. training course, which he calls “an astounding amount of information and an amazing course.” He is currently the head bartender at the Gibson and the cocktail instructor for Culinaerie Cooking School. He also consults on various beverage programs and for liquor companies and he his the Museum of the American Cocktail’s Washington, D.C. Ambassador running seminars on the history of cocktails with one of the Museum founders, Phil Greene.

Despite his creativity (he even has a passion for tea and coffee) Brown says he still loves the classics. “I love scouring old cocktail books. I'm especially fond of the Fifty-Fifty cocktail, which I make with equal parts Tanqueray 10 Gin and Dolin Dry Vermouth. I then spray the top with the zest from an orange peel and discard the peel. It has to be stirred and it has to be cold. I think it epitomizes a simple, elegant cocktail. It's really just two ingredients but it sings.”

He describes the perfect bar as “warm and welcoming where the bartenders are knowledgeable and well-prepared.” He quotes an Arabic saying: “the heart doesn't desire cocktails and bars, it desires friendship,” and explains, “Cocktails and bars are just the vehicle, but a bartender must take care in perfecting his or her craft so that they are capable of enhancing that experience.”

When Derek isn’t working you might see him at Bourbon in Adams Morgan, Bar Pilar or Tabard Inn and Cork. He is also engaged to be married to fellow bartender Chantal …. And says that the only challenge he has found so far being engaged to a fellow bartender is: “it's damn hard to impress her with my bartending skills.”

Brown’s mentors include his brother Tom Brown, whom he calls one of DC’s best bartenders, Phil Greene, fellow DC mixologist Todd Thrasher and all of the guys from the B.A.R. program, especially Doug Frost, whom he knew as a sommelier before I was back behind the stick. The DC folks have also recently organized their own association called the D.C. Craft Bartenders' Guild, and Derek finds inspiration among his peers.

Those of us on the cocktail blogging scene a few years back have long lamented the dissolution of Derek’s cocktail blog “DC Drinks,” and are thrilled to welcome Derek back into the fold with his new blog ….

Derek’s goals include: “Working with bartenders in D.C. to work toward being the best city for bar hospitality in the country. I love promoting my city. I'd also like to work with bartenders nationally to make sure they're getting health insurance and are being taken seriously as a profession. Overall, I just think bartending is the greatest profession on the planet and I want to share that enthusiasm and passion for the craft.”

Photo credit: Jim Webb

The Bartender Diaries: Pablo Moix

Pablo shares his thoughts on being a bartender and bringing “fun” back into mixology:

“I’m born and raised in Queens, NY. My mother is from Barranquilla, Colombia and my father is from Caracas, Venezuela. I have been bartending now almost 16 years. I always did it as an in between job til I figured out what I want to do with my life. It allowed me to have my days free while I tried things like being a stock-brocker or starting my own T-shirt company. None of these things panned out so I'm still behind the bar.

Today, I think maybe I have been doing what I really want to do - I just never realized it ‘til now. I find bartending to be a selfless job - it is about "making people happy.” Regardless of a mood someone is in, when you hand them an amazing, or as my mentor taught me a "life changing beverage experience,” it puts a smile on their face. I love that. Nowadays, luxury is important and everywhere - even in cocktails - everyone is looking for a luxury experience both in alcohol delivery and fresh ingredients. I find that people are focused on being healthy as well so fresh ingredients brings to for cocktails.

I received formal training in Cocktail History, Recipe Execution, and Cocktail Bar Management from noted beverage consultant Ryan Thomas Magarian. Together we opened for The SBE Restaurant and Nightlife Group Katsuya by Stark Hollywood and Glendale, Foxtail Supper-club, and S Bar. Now I am the Mixologist for the One Group who has some of the most successful restaurants, lounges, nightclubs and hotels in the country that include Gansevoot Ny & Miami, STK NY & Los Angeles, One Little west 12th, One Sunset, Tenjune, Kiss and Fly, Bagatelle, and Coco De Ville.

One of my biggest challenges is [bartenders] who think cocktail bars should be super serious places, guys in suspenders and 1920's mustaches, spirits no one has ever heard of but them and the 2 people in the room, super serious. I like provide a similar, if not identical experience, in a fun environment. There are people and music and, well, fun. Somewhere in this cocktail revolution it became cocktails first and fun is non existent. I'm trying to remedy that.

Its funny because Downtown LA trying to be NY, and that is not a good representation of what I believe California style cocktails are. I describe my style as “California Fresh,” balancing complex spirits and bitters with fresh, straight-forward fruit flavors that appeal to both the connoisseur and newcomer alike. In the future, I see myself consulting on a larger scale, internationally. Los Angeles is a small pond in the grand scheme of things I would like to spread my passion around the world.

When I'm not behind the stick or doing development I send all my time with my girlfriend and her son. They are the most important people in my life. Bartending is hard because it consumes so many hours of the day. I have considered walking away and getting a 9-5 but I love what I do. The thing I like least about bartending is people that don't respect us as professionals. I don't have a favorite cocktail per se. Currently, I'm really into rum and Tiki style cocktails. They are fun and extremely approachable and when made right, they are DELICIOUS!!!!!!

A historical figure I would love to serve a cocktail would be Simon Bolivar "the liberator" as he is known he freed 5 countries in South America from Spanish rule. That guy is awesome! My earliest memories is being in Colombia and seeing a statue of a guy on a horse with a sword in hand he looked bad ass, I asked my uncle who he was he said that is Simon Bolivar. He told me his whole story I have admired him ever since. I'm still waiting for someone to make the movie.

As far as mentors or looking up to people aside for what was taught to me by Ryan who I respect tremendously, honestly it is my staff or the people I have trained that now are not only being creative themselves but now have so much respect for what they do and treat it as a craft or and art. They are the people I admire today my staff at STK and One Sunset they don;t get the credit they deserve but they are awesome!!!”

The Bartender Diaries: Jeffrey Morgenthaler

I first became pals with blogger / bartender Jeffrey Morgenthaler when I was in Thailand about 2 years ago. I was on vacation with my husband, and when I checked my blog, I saw that some guy in Oregon referred to me as the “Cocktail Goddess to the Rich and Famous.” Needless to say, I snapped him up as my new male BFF that very moment, and have held him in fond esteem ever since. Not only is he one of the few professional bartenders who has a way with the written word, but his sharp wit and biting humor will leave you laughing, crying, somewhat bewildered -and you’ll come away from it having learned something, too.

Jeffrey has been bartending since 1996 after tossing a coin between being a dishwasher or a bartender, and drunk chicks at bars all around the Northwest are thanking their lucky stars ole’ Morgenthaler ain’t stuck in the back of the kitchen. The other interesting sidenote of Jeffrey’s story is that he chose bartending to get over his “shyness and difficulty speaking in public,” which made me laugh so hard I peed a little. Anyone who’s met the guy (and seen him work his magic on the ladies) wouldn’t buy that line if it were on sale in the blue light special.

While many people look to Jeffrey as a mentor behind the bar, he says that he didn’t really “get into” the kind of bartending he does today until the late 90’s. He was turned onto mixology via San Francisco Paul Harrington’s now defunct Hotwired Cocktail site. Jeffery points out, “His passion for bartending as a craft, understanding of its history, and elegant prosaic writing style inspired me to delve deeper into the profession I'd already been a part of for several years.”

Morgenthaler says he got kicked out of, I mean worked at, just about every bar in Eugene, Oregon before recently moving to Portland, to work at Clyde Common which he calls “a big, busy, urban gastropub,” and says he loves.

Jeffrey says that he’s not the most prolific bartender in terms of new creations, but likes to rediscover the drinks he’s made a thousand times before, pointing out, “One of the best philosophies I've heard on cooking is that to learn how to cook, you must first perfect the egg.”

We all know that behind every great man, there is a woman, and Jeffrey credits a lady named Nancy Bertini as having who trained him. He refers to her as, “Firm yet hospitable with the rough-and-tumble clientele, Nancy knew how to command a room.” Later, when he started got into spirits and cocktails, he’d watch the better bartenders work, while simultaneously soaking up cocktailian wisdom from Paul Harrington, Trader Vic, Charles H. Baker, among others.

When Jeffrey started his blog around 2004, the original intention was to keep a portfolio of architectural and web design work, and show off the occasional pictures of pets, vacations, etc. However, he noticed that people were particularly interested in his cocktail posts, so he took it that direction. Because he works behind a bar, his blog appeals to both bartenders and enthusiasts who appreciate a professional perspective.

Jeffrey particularly likes drinking what he calls “very feminine cocktails,” which doesn’t mean he wants "girlie" drinks, but rather a delicate balance of flavors with depth and sophistication. In his words, “Order a Cosmopolitan, and then order a Negroni. It's like discovering the difference between a young girl and a woman. And I think that's where the beauty of the cocktail lies.” (Do you see what I mean about making the ladies swoon?)

While he considers a bar “a sacred social place,” he likes to spend his time off walking, swimming, reading and cooking. Jeffrey explains, “Nothing beats being barefoot in the kitchen, listening to music and sipping wine while I cook. And at least once a week, I like to have someone cook for me - going to a restaurant and trying something new with good company is one of life's great pleasures.”

So, how does a guy who’s charming, cooks and makes a mean cocktail stay single? “The hours and the lifestyle can be tough on a relationship,” explains Jeff. “I make a point of spending as much time outside of bars as I can…but the words of Willie Nelson always ring in my ears: ‘The nightlife ain't a good life, but it's my life.’”

Jeffrey’s latest role model is a German bartender named Gonçalo De Souza Monteiro whom he met while delivering a presentation at the BCB in Berlin this past fall, “We have similar career arcs - both exploring architecture before falling in love with bartending - and a very similar set of bartending philosophies,” he says. “I think he's one of the best practicing bartenders out there right now, and sadly very few people in the United States know who he is. I hope to help change that.”

Jeffrey’s dream is: “to help restore the profession of bartending to its rightful place as the original American contribution to the culinary arts” and to travel the world doing just that. His favorite drinks are many: Manhattan, the perfect Old Fashioned and Mint Julep, and refers to the Sidecar as his “first love.” Jeff shares, “ Right now I often find myself thirsty for a Daiquiri made with aged rum (I love using El Dorado 15 for this), 2:1 simple syrup and fresh lime. When the proportions are spot on, few things are better.”

Indeed, just as with people, the perfect cocktail is all about the balance. Cheers, Mr. Morgenthaler.
Xo Your pal, The Cocktail Goddess to the Rich and Famous

Bar Keeper Bliss in Sunset Junction

Wander along Sunset Junction some sunny afternoon, and try to find the coolest store on the street. Yep, the Cheese Store of Silverlake is pretty rad, and Intelligentsia will boost both your caffeinated energy level and your java street cred. The vintage clothing stores are fab and the bohemian café at the corner of Hyperion is a great spot for writing your next award-winning screenplay. Tucked in among all that, however, is the coolest of the cool places – according to top-notch tippling standards, anyway…

I’ve often referred to Bar Keeper as the “awesomest bar store in Southern California” and few could argue with that statement. The owners, Joe and Anna Keeper, are pillars in the cocktail-lovers community. They are major supporters of all who work in and around L.A.’s finest drinking establishments as well as staunch protectors of the Silverlake community where the store is based. While studying at USC in the mid-80’s, Joe moved into the neighborhood. After buying a house there in the early 90’s, he’s never left.

Joe opened Bar Keeper in what is now known as Sunset Junction three years ago. He describes his store as “a head shop for people who drink,” adding, “ergo, everything for drinking alcohol except the booze.”

Personally, I call it “the ultimate destination for the hipster sipster,” with the Bar Keeper inventory being split about 60% vintage home bar ware to 40% new. Clients obsessed with making authentic classic cocktails can find a range of specialty bitters ranging from the classic Peychaud’s for a true Sazerac; Gary Regan’s famous orange bitters; or peach, rhubarb or grapefruit-flavored bitters from Fee Brothers. His is also now the only spot to find the whole line from The Bitter Truth: celery, lemon and ‘Jerry Thomas “Own Decanter Bitters.” Yowza. Sign me up, NOW!

In addition to cocktail glasses, shakers and his mind-boggling array of bitters, Joe also sells specialty gourmet ice from Neve Ice. At $30 per pag, this is for the hard-core cocktail enthusiast who understands that the $3 bag from 7-11 just ain’t gonna fly. Now that its once again legal to search for ‘the little green fairy,’ the absinthe-curious can select from a wide variety of absinthe spoons and fountains. And, those taking home decorating to the extreme can pick up an old neon beer signs. (After all, nothing screams “party” like a “miller time” sign buzzing on the living room wall…)

Speaking of parties, Joe and Anna host at least 6 cocktail parties per year for their customers and Silverlake residents in the garden patio behind their store. They bring in mixologists and bartenders (I did it once – loved it) and provide drinks for free. Why? Joe explains, “The idea is that most people drink what they are familiar with. Barkeeper tries to educate.”

Prior to opening Barkeeper, Joe worked in the entertainment industry in reality-based programming. He remembers, “Television had a way of sucking the life out of me. I typically worked 80-hour days, sleeping in my office at least once a week and vomiting in the editing bay often. Ultimately I discovered that I really hated my job, and more importantly, I was embarrassed that this was the best I could do with my life. I fretted over what was next for me...”

He says that he reached out to his father for advice. Joe’s dad explained that providing for his eight children had never felt like work because he loved being an architect, and found his bliss in it. Joe exclaims, “This was the catalyst for my change of careers! I had to prepare for trading Financial Bliss for Spiritual Bliss!”

Inspired by an article in the Wall Street Journal about young people currently coming of age and missing out on the cocktail resurgence of the 90's (ala indie film "Swingers”), Joe says, “I took my wife out to our favorite places on earth - Death Valley - woke her early in the morning, poured her a shot of Tequila, and told her of my plans!”

Not only was Anna supportive of Joe’s bliss but for his 40th birthday, she wrote to the (now) Tony Award winning artist Stew, who once called Silver Lake home, and explained that Joe was a big fan and owned a shop in the ‘hood. She asked if he would compose and record a song for him. Joe says, “The song explains my spiritual journey towards Bar Keeper.” Listen to it on the Barkeeper website and remember Joe’s words of wisdom:

“I believe it was Frank Lloyd Wright who said that to be extraordinary one must first find an environment where they are comfortable. Otherwise, the best a person can be is ordinary. I love my neighborhood. I am passionate about ritual and tradition. I am extraordinary.”

Indeed, you are Joe, and so is your store.

The Bartender Diaries

Barman John Coltharp Piques Our Curiosity

Whether you are a whiskey aficionado or merely whiskey-curious, get yourself down to Seven Grand, and sidle up to John Cotharp at the bar, if you are lucky enough to catch him on a slow night. He carries around an encyclopedia of whiskey knowledge in his head, which he’s willing share with a brown-spirits enthusiast, and he’ll mix you up a damn fine drink. (Personal Aside: John made the best Blood & Sand I’ve ever had!)

Coltharp has chosen the hospitality industry since he was 13, and spent the last 4 years behind the bar. Prior to Seven Grand, John worked at respected spots such as Sona and La Frite, and explains that he’s unable to get away from restaurants: “Every time I did something else for work, I always wanted back in the service industry.”

In addition to honing his skills on the job, he credits Sammy Ross with kick-starting his education on classic drinks and bartending style. He also recently graduated from the prestigious B.A.R. Ready training program led by some of John’s other mentors: Dale DeGroff, Paul Pacult, Steve Olsen and David Wondrich.

We all know that its take more than a good cocktail to make a great bartender. What is John’s secret? “Make your guest feel comfortable. Not everyone knows a lot about spirits or cocktails. Some people want to learn. Some people just want a drink. Don't get on a high horse.”

So what does a great bartender want when he’s the one on the barstool?

In his opinion, the ideal bar “looks old, and is well stocked with well trained staff.” Some of his current faves include Cole's and The Association, in downtown, and he also adds an unexpected hotspot: “One of my of all time favorites is The Pineapple Hill Saloon and Grill in Sherman Oaks. Just a regular bar, but a good place to get some well needed drinking done.”

His describes his perfect night off as hanging with his girlfriend Maria sipping cocktails made by his buddy Matty Eggleston at The Hungry Cat. (Personal aside, again: I concur, Matty rocks and will soon be a Bartender Diary feature, too.)

How does working night and weekends affect a devoted bartender’s personal relationship? “It strains some while improving others,” John explains. “I've made a lot of good friends, that's for sure.”

What keeps a guy like John up at night? “How to make my bar better,” he says. “I'm not kidding. It's sad.”

If he could meet one historical figure, Coltharp would choose Carrie Nation, (in his words): “So I could sit her down and tell her what was going to happen during and because of prohibition.”

Although his ideal drink is “ice cold, balanced, and made in under ten minutes,” he says that his favorite cocktail is the one in his hand, waxing poetic and citing the wise turtle in Kung Fu Panda: "Everyday is a gift, that's why they call it the present.”

The Bartender Diaries

A Sucker for Sake

So, remember when I told you about my time at B.A.R. and mentioned meeting cool people from around the country? Well, here’s one of them. Its funny – that proverb about books and their covers… At first look, David Roth is a tough talkin’ tattooed guy from Connecticut. If I’d met him in the street, instead of studying spirits and cocktails, I would have pegged him for a beer-and-a-shot man. Macho, straight forward. How would I have known that I was sitting next to a sake expert – who has studied in Japan! Holy smokes. I had to get this guy on The Liquid Muse. In his own words:

"About 4 years ago I was approached to run a new yakitori and sake bar in Hartford. I said, “A what and what bar?” Yakitori is easy. It's chicken skewers. o.k. Sake? Sake is that hot stuff that gives you a massive hangover right? It's really strong and you drop it in beer for sake bombs. What’s to know?

Fast forward to the present day and what I know about sake will bore most people within one minute. My quest for knowledge began with buying a book by John Gauntner, which I highly recommend. Then there is info on the Internet. I tasted as much sake as I could. I asked my reps questions about sake that most could not even answer. Mostly I got, "The good stuff is served cold.” True.

One day a sake salesman named Michael and I were talking and I was asking him all kinds of sake questions. He was impressed with my knowledge and asked where I had learned all the info. I told him I had John's book. He asked why I didn’t sign up for John's class in Tokyo. I was like, “There's a sake class in Tokyo? Seriously?” So I did.

Sake is delicious. It's subtle and sweet, it's fruity and dry, it is many things and I like it. Usually convincing someone to try premium chilled sake is best handled by letting them taste it. There are many grades and styles within those categories. It gets a little confusing. So, I decided to dummy it down and make many different sake- tinis. It is a way to introduce sake into peoples’ vocabulary - and their blood stream. If they have questions after that, a thirst for knowledge if you will, I can go from there.

One of the most popular cocktails at my bar is a Cucumber Sake Martini. I use Crop Organic Cucumber vodka, a nice tokubetsu junmai grade sake called Shirakabe Gura White Label, and just a touch of simple syrup. Shake it up and pour into a nice chilled martini glass with a lighlty salted rim and a cucumber pinwheel garnish. Tastes like summer. Well, summer and a salad.

Cucumber Sake Martini

1 1/2 ounces Crop Organic Cucumber Vodka
1 1/2 ounces premium sake, preferably junmai grade.
Dash of simple syrup

Shake vigorously and strain into a chilled cocktail glass

At Koji offer ten or so sake cocktails and offer 40 or so premium sakes by the bottle and glass. Since sake is lower in alcohol than most spirits, 14 - 16%, it softens up the drinks and allows the consumer to enjoy more than one cocktail without falling out of their barstool. Sake is still a hard sell in Hartford but I try to practice, "education without pretension". The category is growing in the U.S and worth getting a little info on. Luckily my bar is still one of the hottest spots in Hartford. Our drinks are constantly featured in the Hartford Courant's Liquor Cabinet. Sake sales can always be better but I can't stop trying to get it into peoples mouths. Check out my bar at Hellokoji.com. Kanpai!"

World Cocktail Week Continues in Los Angeles

Living The Sporting Life

The third meeting of The Sporting Life (ie: Los Angeles-based barmen and other cocktail enthusiasts) took place this last Sunday. It was pushed back from the usual ‘first Sunday of the month’ slot because three or our LA-bartenders were doing the B.A.R. training in New York.

(Congrats to Marcos Tello of Comme Ca, Eric Alperin of The Doheny and Christine D'Abrosca of Seven Grand for completing the challenging course and bringing a little more know-how back to the West Coast.) Our May meeting turned out to be great timing, as it coincided with World Cocktail Week!

We met in the “overflow” bar in the back of Bar Marmont, and its 6-month old newly opened back room. I think I’d define the incredibly cool back room as “homey-hip,” given that it is a former studio apartment, and once inhabited by one of the Monkeys. The pad, which sits right along Sunset Boulevard was featured in the second edition of Rolling Stone Magazine, according to Chateau Marmont General Manager Alain Jeu.

The Sporting Life's founder, Marcos Tello led the festivities by way of welcome and introductions, then turned the floor over to this month’s hosts, Tara Everhart and Joe Brooke who both tend bar in the swanky Hollywood glitterati magnet. Joe also explained his lip-smacking creation, “Brass Flower Cocktail,” which he said is adapted from the Brass Button cocktail.

Joe’s tasty concoction mixed grapefruit juice, gin, St. Germain, grapefruit bitters and topped with champagne. As a regular user of each of those ingredients, I loved his drink - and indulged myself with not one but two before the meeting was over.

This month’s liquor sponsor was St. Germain, and Chad Wiltgen who is the Vice President of the Western U.S at Cooper Spirits. I was an early fan of the liqueur as reflected in this blog post from last Spring, and keep a bottle of the elderflower cordial chilling in my refrigerator at all times, to this day.

Chad addressed the controversial “bike story” propagated by Cooper Spirits when St. Germain first hit the scene. The romantic tale of medieval-looking French bumpkins on bicycles huffing through the hills collecting elderflowers in their caps seemed a big gulp for some to swallow. Robert Cooper took it upon himself to address non-believers and make some clarifications.

Wiltgen explained that, in fact, 8-10 hobbyists do indeed collect elderflowers the traditional way, which Chad likened to those who hunt truffles for pleasure. Otherwise, the small white flowers are harvested by truck during the 3-week period per year when they bloom. They are then macerated and blended with a spirit made from a blend of Gamay, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir groups, and distilled in Dijon.

Though he wouldn’t go into detail, Wiltgen also announced that an exciting new product will be in our glasses within a year. It will be the second antique-style liqueur (I’m guessing) for the company in three years, but as Chad explains, “We’re not looking for volume, we’re looking for quality.” And, when it comes to a killer cocktail, we cocktail enthusiasts know that those are words to live by.

"Tea Tips" with Dr. Tea

If you've read this piece you already know that I'm a Dr. Tea fan. The orange lab coat, the outrageous passion for all things tea-riffic (I had to do it...) and his vast knowledge make Dr. Tea an entertaining and informative expert on this ancient beverage.

He has recently launched podcasts called "Tea Tips." Wanna watch? Click here!

LA Bartenders Unite!

So, finally, something that I’ve been hoping to see come to fruition is a reality.

I started The Liquid Muse Cocktail Club’s Cocktail of the Week, last summer. I highlighted a cocktail from a different LA restaurant in each mailing. (Its currently called The Liquid Muse Mixology Museletter because I just can't do it once a week. Its more-or-less monthly. Sign up for it here.) I was hoping that by highlighting the few quality cocktails I could scrounge up in this town that Angelenos would take note, then seek out and demand better drinks.

Then something wonderful happened. I met some fantastic LA-based bartenders at Tales of the Cocktail, last year, who felt the same way I did. Why are cities like San Fran and NYC (not to mention Seattle, Chicago, Boston and DC) respected for their fine drinks – while LA lags behind as land of the “vodka redbull” or even less appetizing, “Skinny Bitch (rum and diet coke)?” Especially when there are some talented and creative bartenders out here, with a passion for “the craft of the cocktail.” (to reference the grand Dale DeGroff)

Marcos Tello recently launched The Sporting Life (with a little help from his friend and business partner Damian Windsor ... who apparently loves Partida, judging by this photo...). It’s a Los Angeles-based bartender club, of sorts. And, cocktail bloggers are included. (We are all cocktail geeks together, after all…)

The first meeting comprised about 10 people and Joe Keeper (of Bar Keeper fame) lent the cozy back patio behind his store. Marcos sprung for the booze himself, and greeted everyone with sparkling cocktails.

The second meeting was this past weekend at Mozza – a great score considering it’s a tough place to get a reservation to PAY to drink there. This time, the fellas brought on a liquor sponsor. (Hello… if anyone can actually get a liquor sponsor it’s those of us who work with, sell and create new cocktails with their products!)

And – it was a good one! I’ve been a fan of Partida Tequila since I first blogged about it back in the summer of 2006. One of my favorites – and owned by a woman. How much more cool does it get?

The boys whipped up some awesome drinks on Sunday. One with Campari. One with cucumber foam. And, another sort of Tequila Old fashioned. It was the perfect way to kick off a Sunday afternoon, to be sure.

This time the crowd was about double what it was last time, and we had a surprise guest. Jacques Bezuidenhout who reps Partida came down from San Fran with his girlfriend, for the meeting. (Who says No-Cal and So-Cal don’t get along?)

Also in attendance were four cocktail bloggers – including me. Chuck Taggart from Gumbo Pages, Ted Haigh from Dr. Cocktail and Marleigh Riggins from Sloshed were all in one corner together. (Elitist snobs.) Just kidding. I was joyful to be in the real live company of other people who sit in front of a computer blathering on about cocktails for little to no pay. Just for the pure love of it. (Crazy people stick together, ya know!) And, Ted gave a presentation on bitters.

The bartenders came from all sorts of respected hot spots around town: Seven Grand, Doheny, Comme Ca, Bar Marmont, Villa, El Carmen, Fatfish – and more I’m surely forgetting right now (sorry guys).

And, of course, our host Chris Ojeda, the barman at Mozza, gave us a fascinating rundown of the incredible collection of Amaro behind Mozza’s bar. It’s got to be the biggest collection of Amaro in LA. Most bottles have never been opened. The bar menu features several drinks made with Amaro, which is ridiculously cool. Try the Montenegro Fizz, Meletti Smash or The Bitter End to see what I’m talking about…

In the coming weeks and months you will be seeing these talented folks featured here on The Liquid Muse Blog and in The Bartender Diaries. After all, birds of a feather drink together! I raise a glass to Marcos for getting this underway. And, here’s to The Sporting Life!

Ryan Green: Smooth as Blue Velvet

This native Angeleno began his bartending career while waiting for his big break in show biz. Ok, that’s not so unusual in this town. But, what makes Ryan unique, among those whose “day job” is the nightshift, is the creativity that goes into his high-quality cocktails. This guy brings a head-full of knowledge, a armful of recipes and a shaker full of luscious nectar to the cocktail glass!

While studying theater at UCLA in 1999, Ryan worked at Wally’s Wine & Spirits as a cashier, then floor manager, while learning about wine and spirits before he was even 21. When Ryan became “of legal age,” he took his talents to a downtown bartending gig at Kendall’s Brasserie. Soon after that, he moved to the rooftop bar at The Standard.

Seeking a change of pace, in 2004, Ryan headed to New York where he was a manager at The QT. He and buddy Ben Lerer (who later founded Thrillist.com) built the hotel lounge “from the ground up.” He recalls, “We had a lot of success with that bar.”

The following year, Ryan returned to LA and was soon recruited by the Blue Velvet team. “T Elliot was one of original owners here, along with (former high-end chef turned restaurateur) Robert Hartstein. They both worked with me at The Standard and knew I had a lot of cocktails in mind (to bring to) a specific place.” Green also works closely with madcap Sommelier and Bar Manager Matthew Latham, a transplant from Atlanta, who also has a hand in Mixology.

Nestled into the bottom of The Flat, an all-studio apartment building, Blue Velvet caters to power lunchers, "legal eagles" and hipster urbanites. The restaurant / bar is modern and slick with surprising little nooks and crannies. Texture and color play with shapes and light as one moves deeper through the space.

The sexy red room – which also features a fireplace and its own bar – is available for private parties… (Where better to sit on Santa’s lap?)

In line with modern movement in bartending, Ryan uses fresh ingredients, and likes to push the limits of his imagination (yes, he even employs fire, occasionally). He explains, “I like trying things that haven’t been done before.” Ryan sets the mood for customers at the bar with liquid inspiration explaining, “You want that first cocktail to really kick the night off and leave people thinking, ‘This is gonna be a great night!’” He likens the opening cocktail to an amuse bouche before a fine meal.

Like many cocktail connoisseurs in the City of Angels, Green observes that LA lags behind San Francisco and New York when it comes to cocktail culture. He notes, “The LA scene became very bottle service oriented," referring to the trend where buying a bottle of liquor, which comes with mixers like red bull and cranberry juice, gets guests past the velvet rope. Ryan wonders, “Where does that leave the cocktail?” Still, he feels that the quality of drinks (and ability to walk, instead of drive) in downtown is helping LA to catch up.

Ryan’s long-term goal is still acting and writing, although his talent and passion for the drink shines through, and he is dedicated to all of his pursuits. As he puts it, “I spend most of my time at the computer, in the gym or making drinks.”

When writing The Bartender Diaries, I usually ask my interview subjects what they like to drink when not at work. Inevitably some people who make the most incredible cocktails find satisfaction in the most unlikely places. Ryan told me that there are days when all he feels like drinking is a Miller Light… but then he turns around and whips up a cocktail like the Burnt Fennel, whose wonderful flavor combination blew my mind! (The recipe is below but I strongly suggest you get down to Blue Velvet to check it out for yourselves.)

There is also an array of holiday cocktails on the list, these days. Persimmonable made with Grey Goose Citron and fresh persimmon; Squash of Nog blended from Meyer’s rum, brown sugar syrup and Kabocha squash; and Barbed Rhu-ade containing holiday-friendly rhubarb.

The Burnt Fennel

Ryan says: Muddle some shaved fennel, tbs sugar and a lime wedge in a glass, then add 1/2 oz Sambuca Romano. Next, light these ingredients on fire and let them burn for a few seconds. Put ice over the burning ingredients and add:

1 1/2 oz 10 Cane Rum
1/4 oz Cointreau
and fill with pineapple juice and a splash of 7up

Shake all ingredients and serve in a rocks glass with a fennel top for garnish.

*Photos: Claire Barrett Photography

The Bartender Diaries - Marcos Tello

A One In Seven Grand…

When I met Marcos (down at Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans) the first thing that bowled me over was his pure, unadulterated passion for cocktails. This is something I crave, respect and relate to in a person. (Cocktail “geeks” of the world, unite!)

Of course, his boyish good looks, mischievous grin and high energy are the next qualities that hit with a wallop. When all that registers, and you sit yourself down in the illustrious Seven Grand for one of his well-crafted cocktails, that’s where the real fun begins.

This LA-native “got his feet wet” bartending at friends’ parties at the age of 17. When he turned 21, he started bartending at T.G.I.Friday’s. But, he considers his bartending job at Island’s, in 2005, as the first place where he got to “take a crack at Mixology.” He explains, “We did specialty drinks. That’s when I fell in love with the craft.”

His enthusiasm for cocktails grew and he enrolled in Gary Regan’s Cocktails in the Country, in 2006. Upon return to LA, with a few more tricks up his sleeve, Marcos began designing drinks for the Hacienda Golf Club, where he worked closely with the chef to create symbiotic menus. From there, he bellied up to the bar at Table 8, where he met his cocktail co-conspirator, Damian Windsor.

The two founded their own cocktail consulting company which helps restaurants and bars to retrain bartenders (when to shake and when to stir) and instill impressive cocktail programs. In fact, they have just been hired to create the cocktail line-up for this year’s Emmy Awards. (Way to go, guys!)

Both Marcos and Damian can be found behind the bar at Seven Grand, in downtown LA, most days of the week. If you have not been there yet, you are definitely missing something. It is masculine and gritty and glamorous, all at the same time. It’s the kind of watering hole where lawyers, artists, “Hollywood types” and cocktail connoisseurs all play pool together, while imbibing a quality beverage.

Vincenzo Marianella (one of my all-time favorite barmen who is currently at Providence – and on The Liquid Muse lineup) came up with Seven Grand’s original cocktail list. Five of his drinks remain, while Marcos and Damian have since added more. Marcos recalls, “When Cedd (Seven Grand founder) came back from London and saw what they were doing, we added 10 drinks of our own and categorized them according to the old standards of the 1890’s: punches, fizzes, juleps, daisies, crustas and sours.”

Marcos is a sponge for learning from the top guys (and gals) in the country, and while in New Orleans, this past July, he took a Mint Julep class with Chris McMillan at the Ritz, who is known for the best juleps in the country.

Marcos and Damian oversee the bar staff at Seven Grand, ensuring that every drink is as good as the last. “We make sure bartenders are stirring for a 30 seconds and shaking for a good 10 seconds. Ramos Gin Fizz, for example, requires shaking for a full two minutes. If necessary, we hand it off to each other. That dedication breeds a bartender who has pride in their work and can balance their cocktails.”

They’ve gone so far as to create a bartender manual for the crew, which is strictly enforced. Marcos says, “We do trainings every month. They know that if they aren’t up to par, they could be out the door. On top of that, they have to learn everything about whiskey. We are constantly asked questions about whiskey so we have to be on top of our game. We give everyone a whiskey bible.”

Seven Grand is the kind of place that pays attention to every important detail, including glassware. (I shot a video of Marcos at Seven Grand giving a glass presentation for The Liquid Muse Cocktail Show, a few weeks ago. That will be going up shortly.)

When not honing his craft behind the bar, Marcos pursues theatre and sports. He runs the LA Marathon annually, and challenges himself with a new physical activity each year. He shares, “Last year, it was rock climbing. This year it’s surfing.” I’m guessing that if he approaches those endeavors with the same gusto as Mixology, he’ll be tearing up Hawaii’s North Shore before the year is out.

The Bartender Diaries – Dr. Tea

I arrive at the Tea Garden at 11:15 am. I was supposed to be there at 11:00. I hate being late. I take a deep breath and put on my “professional face,” which was just contorted into my “stressed out LA driver face,” 25 seconds earlier. I walk in with a big smile, shake Dr. Tea’s hand, note the orange lab coat, pull out my notebook and get my pen poised for action.

“Let’s sit down and have some tea,” he says. I’m ready to start scribbling interview notes when I look up to see he’s calmly peering down at me, with a little smirk. I’ve barely had a chance to focus my eyeballs after speeding along the 101, tearing down La Cienega and fumbling through my purse for bottom-feeder change to stuff in the meter. I only came up with a nickel and three dimes. Crap.

“A lot of the passion is centered around reading my clients,” Dr. Tea explains, knowingly. “Ninety percent of the time, I’m right.”

Yeah, he’s right. I could use some tea, and a minute to “center.” I take a cool sip of a pomegranate-strawberry-raspberry-hibiscus-rooibus blend placed in front of me, and the muscles between my shoulders and neck drop down about an inch.

He steps behind the counter to begin the demonstrations and asks, “Have you tried a Capa-tea-no?” I shake my head. It’s still a little groggy. If a capa-tea-no is anything like a cappuccino, I want one.

Dr. Tea eyes me as if he’s heard my mind’s grumbling. “I was a 15-cups a day coffee drinker,” he says, buzzing between the cupboards and hot water machine and tea canisters lining the walls. “Drinking ‘coffee-tea’ will change you -mentally, physically, spiritually.”

My defenses go up and I inwardly assure myself that I’m not seeking to change. Apart from losing 20 pounds, sleeping though the night and re-connecting to inner-peace-loving-Goddess, I have no aspirations to change a thing.

“Roasted oolong is the closest to a coffee bean. Instead of coffee every day, people could have “coffee-tea,” he says and goes on to explain that unlike our favorite Starbucks or Coffee Bean drinks, the Tea Garden’s “Capa-tea-no” has only 45 calories, 0 grams of fat. Ok, he’s got a point.

Dr. Tea’s "real" name is Mark Ukra. He claims that his family has been in the tea business for more than 240 years - specifically in the area around Baghdad, until the 1930’s. His personal goal is to take tea from being the 6th most popular drink in the U.S. to the 2nd most popular, as it is in the rest of the world.

Ukra first opened the Tea Garden in Venice Beach in the late 80’s, then expanded to Brentwood in 1993. Less than two months ago, he opened doors to its current location on Melrose (former site of Elixir). Watching him behind his "bar," pouring, swirling, blending, stirring, concocting liquid delights, the similarities between what he does at Tea Garden and what a skilled bartender do are very similar: charm, entertain, satisfy. Dr. Tea has become a "Teatender" in my notes.

Referring to himself as a “nose and palate man,” Ukra says he’s enjoyed cooking since childhood and considers himself somewhat of an expert in champagnes, wines and scotches. He’s also got a romantic streak, which comes out when he sings the praises of his favorite beverage:

“Little did I know how sexy tea is! I found that when I ordered a pot of tea on a date, instead of an espresso, women saw me as kind, gentle, a listener.” His smirk returns, with a hint of mischief, “Tea became my secret ‘sexy’ weapon.”

Speaking of sexy, how about the faux-desserts Dr. Tea whips up in his blender? His Chocolate Mint Ice Cream (made from chocolate mint tea, soy milk and ice) has only 60 calories. And, his Orange Sherbet has only 50.

In addition to health benefits from its anti-oxidants, Dr. Tea sees tea as a useful culinary and cocktail ingredient. “Tea brings out the flavor in everything,” he declares. “It is the single most perfect plant nature created.”

He explains that people seek stimulation from unhealthy sources such as caffeine, nicotine, marijuana and cocaine may want to consider tea’s pleasure enhancing qualities. “Tea has L-Theanine which enters the body from the small intestine and stimulates a feeling of happiness and bliss.”

Which brings us to cocktails. Dr. Tea’s version of a Pina Colada (pineapple and coconut teas) would be a more healthful (and lower calorie) version of a traditional drink. Just blend the tea, soymilk and a little rum, garnish with a pineapple wedge and pink umbrella - and voila!

Basically, any of his teas can be incorporated into tea cocktails, and several bars around LA have been taking heed. I’ve developed a few for recent events – both alcoholic and non-alcoholic. In fact, the tea trend has been going strong around the country for a while now, as you’ll see in the May issue of my monthly cocktail column in Northern Virginia Magazine, and this Liquid Muse Blog write up on Zen Green Tea liqueur, from February.

“Everything here is a mirage,” says Dr. Tea, spreading out his orange arms, gesturing toward the four walls of his tea store, and the beautiful Zen garden in the back. “The Tea Garden about teaching and guiding. It’s not about selling.”

“Yeah, suuure,” I think, as I walk out of the Tea Garden with 2 free samples of tea, a bunch of new drink ideas and a joyful heart. (Doh! His point is well made, again!)

I reluctantly admit to myself that by the end of this interview with Dr. Tea, I’ve become a believer. I didn’t even cuss (too loudly) when I peeled the parking ticket for an expired meter off my windshield.

Tea may have already changed my life.

*Want to recommend a subject for The Bartender Diaries? E-me at: natalie-at-theliquidmuse.com

** Keep an eye out for The Liquid Muse Cocktail Show’s upcoming Webisode, featuring this visit with Dr. Tea, filmed by Margaret Howell.