The Democratization of Wine

By Natalie Bovis-Nelsen (as seen in Real Talk LA)

Do you still buy into the notion that you have to spend a lot for decent wine? Do you take pride in referring to yourself as a “wine snob” and sneer at those who pay single-digit prices for a bottle of vino? You may be in for a mind-opening, and money-saving, surprise.

Until recent years, when it came to buying wine, many people assumed that more expensive is more impressive. But, let’s face it – few can afford a legendary Chateau Margaux for a Tuesday night pasta dinner, at home. Nowadays, Americans are increasingly enjoying the simple luxury of pairing a meal with an interesting wine, without breaking the budget.

Contrary to what many people in the US may believe, there has always been a large selection of affordable wines in European supermarkets and bodegas. In Spain, France or Italy, drinking wine with the main meal of the day is not uncommon, regardless of economic status. When buying meat or vegetables at the market, the consumer may pick up a $3 or $4 bottle to accompany a simple meal.

Charles Shaw wines, which cost a mere $1.99 per bottle, turned the American wine industry upside down since its debut, in 2002. Now celebrating its 5-year anniversary, “Two Buck Chuck,” as it is affectionately called, is owned by Branco Wines, in Napa Valley. Nephew to wine giant Ernest Gallo, Branco CEO Fred Franzia owns 30 brands of wine, resulting in sales of over $300 million per year. Franzia has publicly stated that he believes no bottle of wine is worth more than $10.

Charles Shaw wine is available exclusively at Trader Joe’s, which offers a large selection of wines under $20, with many in the $5 – 8 range. According to a spokesperson for the supermarket chain, Trader Joe’s buys wine, such as Charles Shaw, directly from the producer. Using this business practice allows for bulk purchase without a middle-man, lowering the cost of presenting products to consumers.

So, how does being less expensive affect the quality of wines stocked on the shelves? All wines carried in Trader Joe’s pass the company’s tasting panel. One manager, who participated in an in-store employee wine tasting, said he preferred Two Buck Chuck over some others in the $13 range. He explains, “Every body’s tongue is different. Some customers say its crap but others come in and buy it by the case.”

Jeff Zimmitti, owner of Rosso Wine Shop in Glendale, agrees that attitudes in the wine world are changing, “A wine connoisseur these days is not just the one chasing older vintage Petrus or La Tache. In fact, the new breed of wine lover is most jazzed by finding that 126-year-old-vine Carignan from Cote de Catalanes for under twenty.”

However, Zimmitti encourages someone looking for wine at a good price to check out a neighborhood wine shop. In fact, the home page of the Rosso Wine Shop specifically welcomes the wine enthusiast “disenchanted with Trader Joe’s.” He explains, “Specialty wine shops are the way to go for finding those hidden gems that every wine connoisseur looks for… And beyond that, once you have made a connection at a specialty shop, you are likely to open an ongoing dialog, which will lead to many other new discoveries.”

Whether you decide to pick up a bottle of an inexpensive vintage from Trader Joe’s on your way home from work, or spend a little more time discussing options in a wine store, one thing is for sure. Enjoying wine on a regular basis is becoming a more accessible, and more affordable, practice. And, that is something worth toasting!

Fresh & Easy Wines

The Neighborhood Market – Our Latest Import from the U.K.

We’re just never satisfied. Now that American consumers have pushed the neighborhood grocer to become ‘bigger’ then giant and now “Super Walmarts and Costcos,” we yearn for the cozy feel of the corner market that cares about the community. Luckily, someone outside corporate America is listening… the English!

Tesco is the largest retailer in the United Kingdom, and one of the biggest in the world. So, why is it spending more than $2 billion over the next 5 years to build Neighborhood Markets all around the U.S.? Because after studying our shopping habits, they’ve learned that’s where we want to spend our money.

It certainly seems like a win-win for everyone as Fresh & Easy Neighborhood Market is committed to wholesome, high quality produce at reasonable prices. It also starts California and Nevada employees at $10 / hour (above minimum wage) and offers a 10% quarterly salary bonus for all employees. And, they like to recruit new hires from the neighborhood – about half of all Fresh & Easy employees live within 4 miles of the store.

But, let’s get to the point … Fresh & Easy carries some great – and reasonable – wines! The majority of their wine list is under $10, making ‘a glass with dinner’ a more common option for everyone. And, as demonstrated in my article "The Democratization of Wine" reviewing the success of low-priced, potable vintages such as Charles Shaw at Trader Joe's, the Neighborhood Market also has two brands priced at $1.99. I recently tried a sampling of 4 delightful Fresh & Easy wines, each under $10. Here are my thoughts on the wines and how to enjoy them:

Hilltown ($6.99): 2006, Sauvignon Blanc from Monterey County, California. Personally, I love the guava and pineapple notes typifying just about any Sauv Blanc, whether from up the coast in California or on the other side of the globe in New Zealand. Hilltown, which has won 4 Bronze Medals, is a summertime no-brainer.

Pink Flamingo Rose ($4.99): 2007, Shiraz from South Australia. Bright fruit notes sparkle in this dry summer sipper. Juicy without being too sweet, it works well with a peppery chicken, creamy pasta or ripe cheese plate.

Recoleta ($2.99): 2007, 60% Malbec, 40% Bonarda from Argentina. Dark berries and a long finish make this ideal with something like minted lamb or Jumbalaya. I served this one with garlic-and-herb-de-Provence-encrusted salmon (yes, I do reds with wine, sometimes) and it was marvelous. It won the silver medal at the L.A. International Wine and Spirits Competition 2008.

Reflexion Rioja Reserva ($9.99): 2003, Tempranillo from Northern Spain. It is no secret that I am a fan of not only Spanish wine but Spain itself. While living there from 1999 – 2001, I definitely learned that an inexpensive wine can be absolutely fabulous. This one has enough body, a hint of spice, vanilla and dark cherry to pair wonderfully with Manchego cheese, almonds and dried apricots; or a hunk of dark chocolate. It is also the kind of red wine you just enjoy sipping on its own, having a nice chat with someone you like a lot.

The Liquid Muse Easter Spritzer

I celebrated the Holiest day of the year like any good Catholic girl would... by creating a themed alcoholic libation. (Hey, we drink wine in church - why shouldn't we continue our 'worship' at home?)

This refreshing little sipper is fab for a summer dinner party, book club meeting or to dress up a casual barbeque. It looks pretty but it is easy and cheap to make!

Step 1) Make raspberry lemonade ice cubes by filling an ice tray with lemonade and plopping one fresh raspberry into each cube. Freeze overnight.

Step 2) Fill a large wine glass with about 3 regular ice cubes and 2-3 raspberry lemonade ice cubes.

Step 3) Fill about 3/4 with cheap white wine. I used two-buck Chuck chardonnay. (aka: Charles Shaw from Trader Joe's).

Step 4) Add a splash of lime-flavored sparkling water.

Sidenote: Make this drink non-alcoholic by using my favorite alcohol-removed chardonnay, Fre by Sutter Home! Speaking of which... have you sent in your recipe for our wine cocktail contest? The winner gets a trip for two to fabulous Las Vegas!